| | When we were on survey, there was a small "hotel" (simple restaurant) just around the corner which was only open for breakfast. My fellow surveyors very nicely put up with me as I had no desire to try any other place for breakfast after discovering this one!
Outside, there was nothing flattering about this place. There were two wooden doors that barely closed, and no evidence from the outside that a business was operational. But in the morning, the doors would be flung wide open -- both to invite in customers and to let in the light.
When you walk in, you find a small table in a corner. You have to watch out for the waiters in white who are scurrying back and forth from the counter/cash register to the tables to the kitchen to get the food. We sat in the "Family Room" which was to the side and reserved for women or families. The other room was just the men. There are no menus -- my friends knew exactly what kind of foods a place like this would serve and just what to order. I, on the other hand, wasn't sure what to expect so stalled everyone by asking what they actually had -- and then what that meant! It was very disconcerting not having a menu in front of me.
The first day I settled on idli, I think, along with two cups of tea. The tea comes in little stainless steel cups which are set in a stainless steel bowl. This is both to catch spills and so that you can pour the tea back and forth between the cups until it is cool enough to drink. Or you can pour a little bit in the bowl, swish it 'til it cools, and then drink from the bowl.
The next day, as we walked in there were little plates set on a counter ready for the waiters to come pick them up. I asked my companions what it was, and they told me, "It's set dosa." "Set" is the English word just like a tea set of set of dishes. When the British came, they would order a set of dosa -- a stack of 3 or four dosas on top of one another. They were amazing! They were smaller but thicker than regular dosa, and didn't need masala or chutney to go with them. They were wonderful, and this became my new favorite thing at the restaurant.
When we finished, the waiter brought the small bill and we took it the counter. Our breakfasts usually costed about 60-70 rupees each, or $1.50 at the current exchange rate. As we got up from the table, we went through an exchange that became common throughout the survey and eating out. I felt obligated to leave a tip, at least 10 rupees (25 cents). My fellow surveyors would quickly tell me to put my money away -- You don't tip here! We finally compromised that I could tip at a restaurant, but at this type of very India hole in the wall "hotel," it would be entirely inappropriate. It was hard for me not to leave something on the table, but culturally it would be similar to leaving $5 on the table at McDonald's. It just wasn't what you do!
I was a bit disappointed when we moved on and had to find new places to eat. Nothing quite compared to that little breakfast joint around the corner!
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| | Posted 4/29/2009 10:03 AM - 2 Views - 0 eProps - 0 comments
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